Instructions 



Setting 



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Instructions for Setting 



Excelsior Ranges 



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PUBLISHED BY 

ISAAC A. SHEPPARD & CO. 

PHILADELPHIA 
1890. 



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Entered according to Act of Congress in the year 1890, by 
Isaac A. Sheppard & Co., in the Office of the Librarian of 
Congress, at Washington, D. C. 



Instructions for Setting "Excelsior Ranges." 

The peculiar construction of the Excelsior Ranges, 
the back flues of which are made entirely of brick work, 
renders careful and proper setting indispensable to their 
successful operation. This book has been prepared to set 
forth a method of setting these ranges which the manufac- 
turers recommend as certain, if carefull}" followed, to secure 
satisfactory results. In some details, experienced range 
setters may prefer to depart somewhat from the plan herein 
given. If, in so doing, they obtain results equally good, no 
fault can be found. Those, however, who observe the 
directions following, may feel assured that they are keeping 
within safe lines. 

Dimensions of Chimney. 

The smoke flue should be not less than 9x9 inches 
inside measure. Where a Hot Air Range is used, the 
dimensions of hot air flue' may be 6 x 6 inches, but 6x9 
inches is preferable. Smoke flue and hot air flue should be 
separated by a gas tight wall, and both flues must be well 
pargetted. In the best work, the hot air flue is lined with 
tin pipe, although this is not indispensable. 

When chimney jambs are too near together to receive 
range, it may be necessary to cut them altogether away, 
supporting the chimney by shores until range is set and 
brick work is carried up to meet it. In all new buildings, 
however, care should be taken to leave the necessary width , 
between the 9 inch chimney jambs, to receive the range that 



is to be used. Do not confound this measurement with the 
measurements hereafter given for range foundations. The 
proper width between chimney jambs is as follows : 

No. 77 Excelsior Range, Single or Hot Air, 36 inches 
No. 88 " " " " " 38X " 

No. 77 " Double Oven 52 " 

No. 88 " " " " 55X " 

If the range is to be set in a corner, the wall forming 
one jamb, add 4^2 inches to the width given above, to allow 
for press brick range jamb on that side without cutting into 
the wall. 

After carrying up chimney jambs to a height of 5 feet 
10 inches above floor, throw a flat arch across chimney 
place ; and you will have an opening into which range ma3* 
be set at any time without any cutting except such as is 
needed to tie in the press brick jambs. Then gather over 
to either side as desired, to form chimne} 7 . If a double oven 
range is to be used, and it is practicable to gather over from 
both sides and to form the chimney in centre, it is best to do 
so ; as this will insure an equal draft around both ovens. 
When the smoke flue is at one side ol a double oven range, 
the oven that is farthest from smoke flue is liable to have a 
sluggish draft. In such a case a partial remedy may be 
found in the expedient of cutting away an additional draft 
passage behind the oven damper frame on that side, so as to 
increase the opening of that oven flue into the chimney. 

Mortar. 



None but good mortar should ever be used for range- 
setting — mortar that will stick. The usage of a brick set 
range applies the severest possible test to the mortar joints ; 



and too much care can not be given to the selection and 
proper mixing ot the materials used for this purpose. 

Foundation. 



Solid bearings are indispensable, as without them the 
range is liable to settle irregularly, thus causing cracks to 
open in the flues. 

To find proper depth of foundation for any ol our Ex- 
celsior Ranges, measure the bottom of range from front 
to back, and add thereto g}{ inches (the depth of damper 
frames). This will give correct measure from front to back, 
unless a Log Boiler is to be used, in which case 5 inches 
more must be added. To get correct width, measure total 
width of range between brick jambs, and add the length of 
the kind of brick with which you propose to set the range. 

For our 1890 Pattern Excelsior Ranges (without 
Log Boiler), the proper outside measurements of foundations 
are as follows : 

No. 77, with Single Oven, 44/{ inches front by 30 inches deep. 
88, " " " 47 " " 30 " 

77, " Double "61 " " 30 " 

88, " " " 64 " s " 30 " 

When set with Log Boiler, 35 inches is the proper depth. 

Sometimes, when the range is to stand in a corner, the 
jamb on the oven side can be let three inches into the party 
wall, leaving a projection of one inch to finish the plastering 
to, or to receive wainscoting. This practice, however, de- 
tracts from the appearance of the range, and is not to be 
commended. 

If there is no cellar under the kitchen, a four-inch wall 
is sufficient under front of range, and also to carry brick 



jambs. Trench down for foundation two or three courses 
below surface of ground, and carry these four-inch walls to 
within two courses of top of floor, filling the enclosed space 
with good dirt as you proceed, and ramming it well to make 
it solid. When filled up, put a heading course of brick 
around walls, and cover the rest solid, breaking joints over 
each course. Be sure to fill up all crevices with a grout 
of mortar or to dash them well in with mortar, as there 
must be no possible chance left for air to leak under the 
range into the back flues. Neglect to observe these precau- 
tions may result in seriously impairing the draft of the range. 

When there is a cellar under the kitchen, it will be nec- 
essary to carry up two nine-inch walls from floor to bottom 
of joist to carry the brick jambs. Throw heav} T planking 
across these piers to carry the body of range, care being 
taken to cut the planking to such a length as will permit it 
to rest on the piers only ^ inches on each side, as shown at 
a b on cut No. 4. The brick jambs of the range will then 
have solid bearing on the piers, and not on the planking. 
Cover over the planking solidly with brick to the desired 
level, filling up all crevices, as before stated. 

The bottom of range may be set level with the floor or 
one or two courses of brick higher, the latter plan being pre- 
ferred by many. 

To Set the Hearth. 



The manner of setting hearth, which may be of either 
brick or slate, is shown in cut No. 3. Keep back one inch 
or more on front wall at n. Nail strip along joist or 
trimmer at , and span the space with boards, as shown. 
Cover with mortar at m, upon which bed the hearth firmly: 




Excelsior Range, single Oven. 

Pattern of 1890. 
No. 77 — Between Jambs, 36 inches ; Length of Top, 44 inches ; Height, 
24X inches ; Oven, 16 x jS}4 inches. 

No. 88— Between Jambs, 38X inches ; Length of Top, 46^ inches ; 
Height, 25^ inches ; Oven, 17 x 20^ inches. 



To Set the Plain Single Oven Range. 

Whenever it is practicable to cut out the entire wall space 
back of range four inches, it will save that much room in 
the kitchen. In setting range against a party wall, this of 
course cannot be done ; but in all cases breaks should be 
cut out to tie in the jambs, the whole height from floor to 
top of mantel. 

The foundation having been made ready, begin with 
the oven of Range, and put it carefully into place. Look 
under it to see whether there is any place at which 
the front part does not fit true upon the foundation. If so, 
dash it up with mortar, using the hands to fill the crevice if 
the trowel should be inconvenient. Then fill up the space 
under oven solidly with bricks and mortar. Nothing else 
is so good. If sand is used, it will dry out and settle down. 
If clay is used, it will crack as it becomes dn T . In either 
case air is liable to be admitted under the oven to the back 
flue, to the detriment of the operation of the range. 

Having done this, place the wing side of range in 
position, and fit it to the oven portion by putting the fire 
front between, and bolting up the two upper front bolts. 
Straighten the back of range perfectly, applying the straight 
edge and level to the range top throughout, trying on the 
slip plates and making sure that all is true before putting in 
the ash pit plates. Then put in ash pit plates, leveling 
them up carefully, and bolt all parts together securely. 

Now fill in behind the range to the bottom ol oven flue 
and dust flue (marked O F and D F on cuts No. i and No. 
3), sloping the work slightly away from the iron work, to 
give plenty of clearance to the draft as it passes from the 



bottom flue into the back flue. Carry the back flue upwards 
in direct contact with back of oven, the back oven plate 
forming the front of the flue. Next to the jamb on oven 
side, only put the brick on edge, as shown at L in cut No. i ; 
and next the dust flue use the full width of brick, as shown 
at S S in Cut No. i, lapping the back oven plate about an 
inch, as indicated by the dotted line. This arrangement 
makes the width of back flue only about three inches less 
than the width of the back oven plate ; and the oven thus 
receives all the heat possible from this source. Build up to 
within an inch of the top of range, indicated hy T in cuts, 
before covering over ; and use a bar, as at C in cuts No. i 
and No. 3, to carry the wall above. Be careful to see that 
the rolling damper, marked R D in cuts 1 and 4 works 
freely, and fits snugly into its place. Provide also for clean- 
out opening behind hand door in splash plate, as indicated 
by letters H D in cut No. 4. Line back of flue with brick 
on edge, as shown at S in cut No. 3. 

In finishing the rough work on the dust flue side make 
the dust flue as large as the opening in the ash pit plate, or a 
little larger. Dash in mortar to fill up the space between 
the ash pit and the oven ; and fill in solidly with brick and 
mortar between the ash pit and the wing end of range up to 
the top of ash pit plates. Now put in the grate and put on 
the fire brick rest, taking care to fit it down to its place on 
the ash pit plates. (In the old pattern ranges the grate rest 
and the brick rest are one and the same.) Put in the fire 
brick, the waterback and the front grate, and fill in properly 
to retain back brick and waterback in position. Level off 
smoothly at height of fire brick under back slip plate, and 
carry up brick work behind fire to support the wall above. 

Build up jambs and front wall to height of splash plate 



IO 



or a little below it, leveling up all around so as to begin the 
smooth work of front wall in line with the jambs. After 
placing splash plate in position draw flues together gradually 
to meet the dampers, which should be set two or three courses 
above the splash plate. In all cases keep the rough work 
above the dampers, an inch away from them, and let it be as 
free as possible underneath the dampers. 

Run smooth work up three courses above splash plate, 
and then set up the cast iron brackets, which will give the 
height of the mantel M. 

The warming slide maj^be set two courses above the 
dampers. The steam valve, marked V in the cuts, is set two 
courses of brick below the mantel, on the chimney flue side, 
as nearly as practicable above the middle point of the range. 
After the dampers are set the flues are sloped gradually to 
to the chimney flue. 

In setting any range, all bricks that join the iron work 
must be well jointed with mortar and all crevices dashed up. 
All flues must be carefully pargetted and smoothed with a 
wet whitewash brush to make a good job. It is best to use a 
small trowel, with but little mortar on the trowel at a time. 
After range is set see that all flues are clear, entirely removing 
any mortar that may have fallen to bottom of flues ; and also 
see that the damper blades are clear of mortar, which, if 
allowed to remain, will become hard and cause them to stick. 



Plain Single Oven Range, with Log Boiler. 

If, instead of a waterback and circulating boiler, a log 
boiler is to be used, five inches greater depth is necessary. 
The proper location of boiler is shown by dotted lines L L, 



II 

in cuts No. i and No.. 9. Set the blank end of the boiler at 
the height of the top of the oven flue, marked O F, butting 
the end of boiler against the brick on edge next to jamb. 
The boiler needs no bearing on that end. Let there be one- 
half inch clear space between boiler and back of oven, and a 
four inch flue back of boiler, as shown in cut No. 2, where 
the arrows indicate the course of draft around boiler. Use 
a boiler ten inches in diameter and carry up oven flue full 
width to five inches above top of boiler before covering over, 
to avoid choking the flue. Throw a bar across on the 
width to span the oven flue five inches above top of boiler, 
as shown at C in cut No. 2 ; and to round the corner, stick 
up a beveled brick with mortar under this covering bar, as 
shown in same cut. Brush carefully off boiler any mortar 
that may have fallen upon it. The dust flue is carried under 
and up behind boiler in the same way, as shown by dotted 
lines d and d\ in cut No. 8. The back wall of flues is car- 
ried up over covering bar to meet the dampers, as shown at 
n, in cut No. 8. 

In all other respects proceed as in the case of range 
without log boiler. 



Cast Iron Mantel and Brackets. 

The cast iron brackets afford an excellent means of 
protecting the press brick jambs ; and the cast iron mantel, 
marked M in cuts, which in our 1890 Pattern Excelsior 
Ranges, is of sufficient depth to give a bearing of 1^ 
inches to the wall above, adds a beautiful finish to the entire 
work. 



12 



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Excelsior Range, Double oven. 

Pattern for 1890. 

No. 77 — Between Jambs, 52 inches ; Length of Top, 60 inches ; Height, 

24*4 inches ; Ovens, 16 x 18 }4 inches. 
No. 88 — Between Jambs, 55% inches ; Length of Top, 63X inches 

Height, 25^ inches; Ovens, 17 x 20^ inches. 



13 



To Set the Double Oven Ranges. 

Inasmuch as the Double Oven Excelsior Rangk 
differs from the Single Oven only in having an additional 
oven, a careful reading of the directions for setting the 
Single Oven Range should be sufficient to enable any one 
to set the Double Oven Range. The only additional point 
that seems to require mention, relates to the waterback con- 
nections. In the Single Oven Ranges of the 1890 Pattern, 
the waterback is at the side of the fire, and the connections 
are made in front of the jamb. In the Double Oven Ranges 
the waterback necessarily is placed at the back of the fire, 
and the connections pass from the centre of the waterback, 
behind the range, to either side, as desired. 

When lead pipe is used, these connections are made 
by means of copper pipes, brazed to the waterback couplings 
and soldered to the lead pipe outside of jambs; and it is 
best to arrange these so that they can be carried back and 
bedded in the back wall of flue, instead of carrying them 
out through the oven flue. The latter plan not only 
obstructs the oven flue to some extent, but also, by exposing 
the pipes to the continued action of the gases in the oven 
flue, renders them liable to be corroded. 

In the case of Double Oven Ranges, the back wall of 
the flues ma} T be formed of brick on edge, instead of on the 
flat, as shown at 5 in cut No. 3, which will make the oven 
flues 2 inches deeper, and therefore less apt to need frequent 
cleaning. 



H 




Excelsior Hot Air Range. 

Pattern of 1890. 

No. 77— Between Jambs, 36 inches ; Length of Top, 44 inches ; Height, 

2/[V 2 inches; Oven, 16 x i8>^ inches. 
No. 88— Between Jambs, 38X inches ; Length of Top, 46^ inches ; 

Height, 25X inches; Oven, 17 x 20^ inches. 



15 



To Set the Hot Air Range. 

The foundation for the Hot Air Range is prepared ex- 
actly as in the case of the Plain Single Oven Range, except 
that care must be taken to form the Cold Air Inlet just under 
joist, as shown at i in Cuts 4 and 5, carrying it up, as shown 
by dotted lines in the cuts, until opportunity is given tor cold 
air to enter range end at k. To insure an ample supply, cut 
one or two inches out of the inside of brick jamb, as indicated 
by dotted lines around " Cold Air " space in Cuts 6 and 9. 

After putting the oven part into position and filling in 
under oven, as described in the instructions for setting the 
plain range, stand up the wing end in its place, and put the 
fire front into position, securing it by fastening the top bolts. 
Put on the slip plates, and then see that the whole top is 
perfectly level, applying straight-edge and level on front as 
well as back of top and from corner to corner. After get- 
ting these parts into place, put in side ash pit plates, bolt 
them to front, and then put in the back ash pit plate. Do 
not screw bolts tight until ash box is set complete and grate 
has been put into place; then, it ash pit is square, screw 
bolts tight. 

Then fill in rough work behind to the level of bottom 
ol oven flue and dust flue, marked O F and D F in cuts, 
dashing up all crevices with mortar. In forming flues, lay 
brick on edge next to jamb on oven side, as shown at e in 
Cut No. 6. Separate oven flue from dust flue hy brick on 
edge at /in Cut 6, lapping the back of oven one inch at s. 
Carry these up to within an inch of the range top, the height 
at which the bar C is to be thrown across. Then build up 
back wall of brick on edge, and cut it off on a bevel, as 



i6 

shown at ^ in cut No. 3. Dash up and smooth the oven 
flue. 

Then form dust flue on an angle, as shown in cut No. 
6, up to the top of opening in back ash pit plate, and fill in 
dead work between dust flue and brick jamb solidly as high 
as the dotted line b on cut No. 5. This dead work then 
forms the bottom of the hot air flue, as indicated at #011 cut 
No. 4. Fill up with mortar between ash pit and ovens be- 
fore putting in bottom plate of hot air chamber. 

In building up the jamb on wing end let the cold air 
opening come in two inches on the jamb, as before stated. 
Fill in along lower edge of ash pit on that side with mortar 
and small pieces of brick to close any possible crevice that 
might admit dust from ash pit into hot air chamber. Also 
fill in at bottom front corner on a slope, as shown at/" in cut 
No. 5, so as to give cold air an easy chance to pass upwards 
through bottom plate of hot air chamber at opening marked 
x in cut No. 6, just in front of check plate. Cany up jamb 
to top of range, then form dust flue as shown in cut No. 7, 
with brick on edge, beveling off corners at wand^, to dimin- 
ish obstruction to passage of hot air. Dash up and smooth 
hot air flue and dust flue, and fill in corners of iron work at 
/ in cut No. 7. Put in the plates that form the top of hot 
air chamber and bolt them securely in place, putting water- 
back and cylinder and check plate into proper place, and 
making sure that everything fits snugly. Fill in back corner 
at /, behind waterback. 

Throw bar across hot air flue, level with top ot sloping 
hot air plate, marked/ in cut No. 5, and let the first course 
of brick resting on this bar be cut off on a bevel at the back, 
as shown at r in same cut, or set it on edge, as at C in cut 
No. 8, so as to afford the hot air an easy passage. Throw a 



i7 

bar across oven flue above direct draft opening, as at C in cut 
No. 4. Build up jambs and front wall to height of splash 
plate, leveling up all around at height of splash plate or a 
little below it, according as the iamb courses may come. 
Then begin the smooth work of front wall in line with the 
iambs. Mark out position of oven damper and dust damper, 
which should be set three courses above the splash plate, and 
build up the several widths marked e, y"and^\ on cuts 4 and 
7 to meet the dampers. Avoid choking the hot air flue, 
even if you have to leave out the width marked e next to 
jamb on that side. 

In setting damper frames notice that the portion that 
rests on wall has a square opening that must be filled with 
mortar to keep the damper frame from working loose after it 
has been set. 

Run smooth brick work up three courses above splash 
plate and then set up the cast iron brackets, which will give 
the height of the mantel M. If the brackets are not be used, 
the mantel alone being preferred, carry up the brick work 
five courses above course that covers dampers before setting 
steam valve V. Two courses more will give a good height 
for the mantel. Set the warming slide brackets on the 
second course above the dampers. 

Build the widths above dampers four inches wide. The 
chimney is as liable to be at the side as in the centre. When 
it conies at the side give the flues as much slope as possible, as 
shown in cut No 4. It is not necessary to carry up brick on 
edge next to jamb, except in cases in which you have to draw 
over for some distance, when you will need it to rest the 
bricks on for covering over to chimney. The chimney breast 
above mantel may be studded out to finish up with lath and 
plaster work in line with the brick jambs. 



i8 



After mantel is set a very neat finish is made by run- 
ning two courses of smooth brick over it, as at z in cut No . 
5, setting them out to receive plaster line at :w. 



Hot Air Range with Log Boiler. 

Begin work on this in exactly the same way as on range 
without boiler, excepting that an allowance of 5 inches 
greater depth must be made behind the range. Cuts 8, 9, 
10 and 11 show clearly the manner of placing boiler and 
forming flues. 

Build up the widths that form the sides of the respective 
flues to the height of the top of oven flue and dust flue, 
marked O F and D F on cut No. 4, laying out the same as 
shown in cut No. 9. If the boiler head is to come through 
the jamb on- the dust flue side, as shown in drawings, it is 
best to build up the brick on edge at e\ next to jamb on oven 
side, to within an inch or so below top of range before set- 
ting the boiler, as ( this plan gives a better opportunity to 
dash up and smooth that side of the oven flue. After having 
leveled up the flues and dead work, set the boiler in position, 
as shown by dotted lines on cut No. 9, leaving ^-inch space 
between boiler and back oven plate. The dust flue as well 
as the oven flue passes under the boiler and comes up be- 
hind it. After setting boiler build up jambs to top of range, 
following previous instructions as to fire box of range. 
Cover over the dust flue to boiler, as shown by dotted lines 
at d in cut No. 8. The top of covering should come level 
with the top of ash pit. It maybe necessary to split the 
bricks to do it. Then cover over well with mortar to pre- 
vent any leakage from dust flue into hot air chamber. 



19 

Then build up the dust flue behind and over the boiler, 
bringing it to an angle, as shown in cut No. 10, from g to 
m, in order to leave a clear hot air passage the full width 
of the fire section. Do not carry up the dead work that 
forms the bottom of hot air flue any higher than the middle 
of boiler, as shown in cut No. 8, in order that the boiler 
may get as much heat as possible from the hot air current 
passing over it. 

Span the oven flue across on the width, both back and 
front, 5 inches above boiler, as shown at C C in cut No. 2, 
with covering bars, sticking up a beveled brick with mortar 
under the back covering bar, as shown. Cover over front of 
hot air passage with bar, as shown at C in cut No. 8, and lay 
brick on edge on this bar first, laying the next course the 
four-inch way, and beveling off the under corner at the 
back to give the hot air the freest passage possible from the 
hot air chamber into the flue. Build up jambs and front 
wall to height of splash plate, leveling off so as to commence 
smooth work of frent wall on a line with jambs all around. 
Mark out position of dampers, which should be set three 
courses above splash plate, beginning with oven damper. 
Bring out the back of dust flue to meet damper, as shown at 
n in cut No. 8. Build up the several widths e,f and g, as 
shown in cut No. 1 1 . The manner of gathering around the 
width between dust flue and hot air flue, from angle at m to 
the square at^", is clearly shown in this cut. 

Build up smooth work and set brackets , steam valve and 
mantel as previously instructed. 



20 

Concerning Log Boilers. 

Where Log Boilers are used, the proper sizes are 3 feet by 
10 inches for Nos. 77 and 88, Single Oven, and 4 feet by 10 
inches for Nos. 77 and 88, Double Oven. These sizes will 
furnish hot water more rapidly, and give greater satisfaction 
than larger sizes. It is a mistake to suppose that more hot 
water will be obtained by using a larger boiler. The only 
source of heat for log boilers is the waste heat of the oven 
flue ; and this is only capable of doing a limited amount of 
work. We do not regard the log boiler as a desirable 
arrangement, its only recommendations being that it is 
cheap, and that a little room in the kitchen is saved by its 
use. This latter advantage is apparent rather than real, as 
will be seen when it is remembered that the use of the log 
boiler compels the range to be set out five inches further 
into the room. 

We make Log Boilers of the very best quality, and also 
a Patent Combined Log Boiler and Waterback, which is a 
decidedly superior article. We, however, invariably recom- 
mend the use of the waterback and a circulating boiler, as 
affording the most rapid and satisfactory supply ol hot 
water. As these are often improperly set, even by ex- 
perienced plumbers, we think it expedient to point out the 
conditions that are essential to success. 

Hints about Circulating Boilers. 

1 . In a vertical circulating boiler, the cold water supply 
should pass downwards through a circulating tube to within 
Jive inches of the bottom ol the boiler. If the tube is too 
short, have it lengthened. 



21 



2. Supply pipe from boiler to waterbaek must be of full 
size, unobstructed, and with a sediment eoek at its lowest 
point, where it will drain both boiler and waterbaek, and 
keep them clear from muddy deposits. 

3. The return pipe from waterbaek to boiler must have 
steady ascent from waterbaek to boiler. If at any point it 
should drop below level of supply pipe, all circulation will 
cease. If lead pipe is used, be careful to see that bends are 
properly made, so as not to lessen the internal diameter. 

4. Boiler should stand as near to range as possible. 
The friction of a long run of pipe greatly retards the flow 
of water. Pipe used should be of full size, also to avoid 
undue friction. 

5. Boilers must always be set higher than the top of the 
waterbaek with which they are connected. The higher the 
boiler can be placed, the better will be the circulation. If 
the boiler stand is too low, it must be blocked up. 

6. Above all, the boiler must not be too large. It is a 
common error, and a very great one, to think that the larger 
the boiler, the greater will be the supply of hot water. A 
given amount of fire surface will heat just so much water 
in a given time, and no more. Usually 3^ minutes per 
gallon is a safe estimate for our waterbaeks. It is evident 
that the larger the boiler, the longer will be the time required 
to heat it thoroughly. For even large families, a 30-gallon 
boiler, which can be thoroughly heated in an hour and three- 
quarters, is far more likely to be satisfactory than a 52- 
gallon boiler, which will require over three hours to heat it 
thoroughly, and which meanwhile will furnish only luke- 
warm water. 

7. Proper management of the fire is essential. It 
requires a clear, bright, steady fire to heat water ; and cooks 



22 

who will not take pains to keep ashes and clinker from 
accumulating against the face of the waterback, will probably 
experience trouble. 

If the conditions above indicated are carefully observed, 
and the connecting pipes are free from all obstructions, hot 
water will be furnished with great rapidity. If complaint 
should arise in any case, a personal examination will probably 
show that some one or more of the foregoing conditions have 
not been complied with. Our customers are advised, in 
such a case, not to rely upon representations made b} r any 
other person, but to make such examinatioji themselves. 



Sifter Grate. 

It is often desired to place a sifter grate in the bottom 
of range ash pit, communicating with ash shute in cellar. 
Cuts 12, 13 and 14 show the manner of arranging this, in a 
single oven range, so clearly as hardly to require explanation. 

In building ash shute in the cellar set the ash door on 
second course above the floor ; and slope down inside to 
bottom, as shown by dotted line at b in Cut No, 14. Build 
sides or piers 9 inches wide, and the front 4 inches as shown. 
To cover ash pit it is best to use iron bars placed crosswise 
from pier to pier, with a supporting bar beneath them from 
front to back, as shown at c in cuts. Be careful in setting 
sifter grate to keep the sides parallel with jambs, measuring 
from centre line of sifter grate. 

Set bars not less than three courses below top of floor, 
as shown on drawings, grouting or dashing up with mortar 
all crevices, and breaking joints over every course, to get a 
perfect foundation for range. If it is a hot air range be 



23 

careful to make cold air opening as shown by dotted lines 
at i in cuts 4 and 5 ; and be especially careful to see that 
all joints between cold *air flue and ash pit portion are 
filled up. 

Brick Required. 

Owing to varied conditions no estimate can be given 
that will meet every case. In ordinary cases, with plain 
foundation and no cellar under, a single oven range will 
require 550 hard brick and 225 press brick ; and a double 
oven range will require 700 hard brick and 275 press brick. 
When there is a cellar under, add for piers, 850 hard brick 
to these figures. 

Excelsior Ranges of Earlier Patterns. 

As there is no material difference in the methods of 
setting any of the Excelsior Ranges, any bricklayer who 
understands the instructions herein given for setting the 
ranges of the 1890 Pattern, can readily make such slight 
adaptations as will be needed to set any of the earlier patterns 
of the Excelsior Ranges in a proper and satisfactory 
manner. 



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